When Time First Came to the Wrist

The history of the watch strap cannot be separated from the history of the wristwatch itself. Before watches were routinely worn on the wrist, portable timepieces were primarily carried as pocket watches. The transition from pocket to wrist required more than simply making a smaller watch; it required an entirely new method of securing the timepiece to the body. One of the earliest important examples comes from Patek Philippe, whose 1868 wristwatch made for the Countess Koscowicz of Hungary incorporated lugs connecting the watch to its bracelet—an arrangement that became fundamental to the modern wristwatch.

The idea of wearing a timepiece on the wrist, however, was not entirely new in the nineteenth century. Small watches had occasionally been incorporated into jewellery and bracelets much earlier. An often-cited example dates to 1571, when Queen Elizabeth I received an armlet containing a watch. Such pieces were principally objects of jewellery rather than the practical wristwatches familiar today. During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, watchmakers and jewellers continued to experiment with small timepieces incorporated into bracelets, gradually establishing the idea that a watch could become something worn on the body rather than simply carried.

The crucial transformation occurred when wrist-worn watches became practical, reliable and socially useful. Once the watch moved from the pocket to the wrist, the strap became an essential part of its design. It had to secure the case, remain comfortable for extended periods, withstand movement and eventually accommodate different environments—from formal society to battlefields and underwater exploration.

The Age of Leather

Leather became one of the most natural solutions.

Flexible, relatively lightweight and capable of being shaped around the wrist, leather provided a practical alternative to rigid metal. As wristwatches became increasingly popular during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, leather straps became closely associated with the new form of watch wearing.

The rise of the wristwatch among military personnel accelerated this development. Soldiers needed to be able to read the time without reaching into a pocket, particularly when coordinating movements, artillery, communications and other operations. A watch secured to the wrist was significantly more practical in such circumstances.

Leather therefore became more than an aesthetic choice. It was a functional material that connected the watch securely to its wearer while remaining relatively comfortable. Over time, different types of leather, tanning methods, stitching techniques, lining materials and buckle designs produced an enormous range of strap styles.

By the early twentieth century, the leather strap had become one of the defining companions of the wristwatch.

From Battlefield Tool to Everyday Watch

The First World War played an important role in accelerating the acceptance of wristwatches among men. Watches had previously been strongly associated with pocket-watch culture, while wristwatches were often regarded as jewellery or feminine accessories. Military practicality helped change that perception.

A watch worn on the wrist could be consulted instantly. There was no need to remove it from a pocket, open a case or interrupt an activity. The strap was therefore not merely an accessory—it was part of a new way of using time.

The wartime environment also exposed the weaknesses of different materials. Leather could be affected by moisture, mud, sweat and prolonged exposure to harsh conditions. These limitations encouraged manufacturers and users to experiment with alternative materials and constructions.

This would eventually lead to one of the most important developments in strap history: the metal bracelet.

The Rise of the Metal Bracelet

Although jewellery watches with precious-metal wristbands existed much earlier, the modern watch bracelet emerged principally during the twentieth century. Metal bracelets became increasingly important as wristwatches evolved from delicate dress accessories into robust everyday instruments. Recent historical research into watch bracelets places their major rise in the 1920s, following the First World War and the growing popularity of wristwatches.

The attraction of metal was obvious. Unlike leather, steel could withstand water, perspiration and everyday wear without absorbing moisture. It could also be manufactured into articulated links, allowing a rigid material to move naturally around the wrist.

One of the most influential names in this development was Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet specialist founded in 1835. The company became one of the most important suppliers of bracelets to the Swiss watch industry, producing designs that would eventually become inseparable from twentieth-century watchmaking.

Bonklip: The Bracelet That Adjusted to the Wrist

Among the important early bracelet designs was the Bonklip, associated with Gay Frères and supplied to Rolex from the 1930s onward.

Its great innovation was adjustability. Rather than depending entirely on conventional removable links, the bracelet could be adjusted to fit different wrist sizes. Gay Frères promoted the concept as “réglable pour chaque poignet”—adjustable for every wrist.

This was an important step in transforming the bracelet from a simple metal attachment into a sophisticated piece of engineering.

The bracelet was no longer merely holding the watch to the wrist. It was becoming part of the wearing experience itself.

The Beads-of-Rice Bracelet

During the 1940s, another distinctive design emerged: the beads-of-rice bracelet.

Made from numerous small rounded links, the bracelet resembled a series of grains of rice arranged across the wrist. The small articulated sections allowed the bracelet to conform closely to the wrist, providing a combination of flexibility and visual refinement. Gay Frères produced beads-of-rice bracelets for prestigious manufacturers including Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, and the design became an important part of mid-century Swiss watch culture.

For collectors today, beads-of-rice bracelets remain particularly evocative because they immediately suggest the golden age of mid-century mechanical watchmaking.

The Oyster and the Birth of the Modern Sports Bracelet

The development of the Oyster bracelet represented another decisive chapter.

Rolex patented its iconic riveted Oyster bracelet in 1947, with the bracelet entering production for watches in 1948. Gay Frères was a major supplier associated with its development and production. The bracelet's robust construction, articulated links and distinctive riveted appearance helped establish the visual language of the modern sports-watch bracelet.

The design evolved further during the 1950s, including the development of curved end links that followed the shape of the watch case more closely. This seemingly small improvement made the bracelet appear integrated with the case rather than simply attached to it.

That principle would become increasingly important in later decades.

The Bracelet Becomes Part of the Watch

By the middle of the twentieth century, designers had begun to recognise that the bracelet could fundamentally change the character of a watch.

A leather strap could make a watch appear traditional and elegant. A steel bracelet could make the same case appear more robust and sporty. A beads-of-rice bracelet could introduce a jewellery-like character. The strap was becoming an extension of the watch's identity.

This idea reached another level during the 1960s and 1970s, when manufacturers and specialist bracelet makers experimented with increasingly distinctive constructions.

Gay Frères produced the famous ladder bracelet used on Zenith chronographs, while its beads-of-rice and other designs appeared on watches from brands including Heuer and other major Swiss manufacturers.

The bracelet had effectively become part of horological design language.

The Military Strap Revolution

While metal bracelets were developing in Switzerland, another revolution was taking place in military watch equipment.

The British Ministry of Defence introduced the strap that would eventually become known worldwide as the NATO strap in 1973. The original specification was extremely practical: a nylon strap, originally in Admiralty Grey, with metal hardware and additional length allowing soldiers to wear the watch over clothing.

It was commonly known as the G10, because British personnel obtained it through the G1098 requisition process.

The design contained an important safety feature. The watch was threaded through the continuous strap, so if one spring bar failed, the watch would remain attached to the strap rather than immediately falling away from the wrist. The military design therefore prioritised security, durability and practicality over decoration.

Interestingly, the name “NATO strap” came later through association with NATO stock-numbering and standardisation. It was not originally a NATO-branded consumer product.

From Military Equipment to Fashion

The NATO strap eventually escaped the military environment.

Its transformation into a fashion object was helped enormously by popular culture. One of the most famous examples came from James Bond.

In Goldfinger (1964), Sean Connery's Bond famously wears a striped fabric strap with his Rolex Submariner. Strictly speaking, it was not a NATO strap, because the NATO specification would not exist until 1973. It was a striped regimental-style strap. Nevertheless, the visual association between Bond, Rolex and the striped strap became so strong that similar designs later became popularly known as “Bond NATO” straps.

Decades later, actual NATO straps appeared in Bond films, reinforcing the connection between military practicality, British style and mechanical watches.

The simple nylon strap had become a cultural object.

Rubber Enters the World of Horology

As watches moved deeper into professional diving and water-resistant sports applications, another material became increasingly important: rubber.

Leather was comfortable but poorly suited to prolonged exposure to water. Metal could withstand water but could be heavier and less flexible. Rubber offered another solution—water resistance, flexibility, durability and easy cleaning.

The growth of professional diving watches during the second half of the twentieth century encouraged manufacturers to develop purpose-built rubber straps. Eventually, synthetic rubber and elastomer compounds allowed watchmakers to create straps with carefully engineered textures, ventilation channels, integrated end sections and deployment systems.

The rubber strap became particularly important in the world of dive watches and modern sports watches.

The Age of Synthetic Materials

The story did not end with rubber.

Modern watch straps can now be produced from an extraordinary variety of materials: nylon, polyester, silicone, FKM rubber, polyurethane, canvas, sailcloth, synthetic leather, carbon-based composites and technical textiles, alongside traditional leather and metals.

These materials allow manufacturers to optimise straps for specific purposes.

A diver needs water resistance.

A military user needs durability and security.

A dress-watch wearer may prioritise softness and elegance.

A racing chronograph may require a perforated strap for ventilation and a strong fastening system.

A luxury sports watch may require an integrated rubber or composite bracelet designed specifically around the case.

The strap has therefore become increasingly specialised.

The Major Categories of Watch Straps

Leather Straps

Leather remains one of the most traditional choices. Calfskin, alligator, ostrich and other leathers can produce dramatically different textures and levels of formality. Leather straps are particularly associated with dress watches and traditional mechanical watchmaking.

The construction can be equally sophisticated. A premium leather strap may contain an outer leather layer, reinforcement, lining, padding, stitching and edge finishing. The difference between an inexpensive strap and a high-end handmade strap can therefore be surprisingly substantial.

Metal Bracelets

Metal bracelets are constructed from articulated links, traditionally in stainless steel but also in titanium, precious metals and other alloys. Their major advantages are durability, longevity and resistance to water and everyday wear.

Within this category are numerous designs: Oyster-style, Jubilee-style, President-style, beads-of-rice, ladder, mesh and integrated bracelets, among others.

The bracelet can dramatically alter the visual character of a watch, which is why collectors often regard the bracelet as almost as important as the case.

Milanese / Mesh Bracelets

Mesh bracelets use finely woven or interlinked metal construction to create a highly flexible surface. They have a distinctly jewellery-like appearance and can conform closely to the wrist.

Their visual history connects watchmaking with traditional metalworking and jewellery craftsmanship, making mesh particularly effective on vintage-inspired and dress watches.

NATO / Nylon Straps

NATO straps are typically made from woven nylon and are characterised by their one-piece construction and additional securing section. Their origins lie firmly in military requirements, but their versatility has made them one of the most popular interchangeable strap styles in modern watch culture.

Rubber and FKM Straps

Rubber straps are particularly associated with diving and sports watches. Modern high-performance versions may use compounds such as FKM, chosen for resistance to heat, chemicals and environmental exposure.

They can be smooth, textured, perforated or moulded specifically to the shape of a watch case.

Canvas and Textile Straps

Canvas and woven textile straps occupy a middle ground between traditional leather and military nylon. They can create a rugged, vintage or utilitarian appearance and are frequently paired with field watches, pilot watches and casual mechanical watches.

Perlon Straps

Perlon is a woven synthetic material that became popular because of its flexibility and adjustability. The woven construction allows the buckle pin to pass through the material at many points, making sizing particularly convenient.

Rubberised and Hybrid Straps

Modern manufacturers increasingly combine materials. Leather may be paired with a rubber lining; textile may be bonded to rubber; synthetic materials may be combined with leather-like surfaces.

These hybrid constructions attempt to combine traditional appearance with modern durability.

The Anatomy of a Watch Strap

A strap may appear simple, but it is a surprisingly sophisticated component.

At the watch end are the lug holes, where spring bars connect the strap to the case. The spring bar itself is a small telescopic metal component that allows the strap to be attached and removed.

The strap has its own width, normally measured between the inside faces of the watch lugs. Common sizes include 18mm, 20mm and 22mm, although many other widths exist.

The buckle controls how the strap closes around the wrist. Traditional pin buckles remain common, while deployment and folding clasps provide alternative fastening systems.

The keepers, sometimes called loops, hold the loose end of the strap after fastening.

In a NATO strap, additional keepers and the secondary section of material create the characteristic security system that distinguishes it from an ordinary two-piece strap.

Every one of these small components contributes to comfort, security and appearance.

The Strap as Part of Watch Design

Modern watchmaking increasingly treats the strap as an integral part of the design rather than an afterthought.

Some watches are deliberately designed around a particular bracelet. Others use integrated straps that follow the shape of the case and eliminate the traditional visual gap between case and strap.

The evolution of integrated bracelets during the 1970s demonstrated just how far this philosophy could go. Gay Frères was involved in producing integrated bracelet designs associated with watches such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

In these watches, the bracelet is not simply attached to the case.

It is the case's continuation.

Why Straps Matter to Collectors

For watch collectors, changing the strap can transform the personality of a watch without changing the watch itself.

A vintage dress watch on brown leather can feel completely different on black leather.

A dive watch on steel can become more relaxed on rubber.

A field watch on canvas can become more historically evocative on military nylon.

A chronograph on a beads-of-rice bracelet can acquire an unmistakably mid-century character.

This is why straps have become an important part of watch collecting culture. They provide an inexpensive and highly personal way to reinterpret an existing timepiece.

A Small Object With a Long History

The history of the watch strap is ultimately the history of how people learned to wear time.

The earliest jewellery watches treated the wrist as an elegant place for a timepiece. Leather made wristwatches practical. War made them indispensable. Steel transformed them into durable everyday objects. Military nylon created a new philosophy of security. Rubber followed the watch beneath the waves. Modern synthetic materials continue to push the boundaries of comfort, durability and design.

Through all these changes, one principle has remained constant.

The movement measures time.

The case protects it.

But the strap is what brings it to the wrist.

And perhaps that is why the humble watch strap deserves its own chapter in horological history.

Because every watch tells time—but the strap tells us how that time was meant to be worn.

Horological Timeline

1571 — Early wrist-worn timepiece: An armlet containing a watch was reportedly presented to Queen Elizabeth I, representing one of the earliest documented examples of a watch incorporated into something worn on the wrist.

18th–19th centuries — Jewellery watches: Small movements increasingly appeared in bracelets and other forms of jewellery, although these were principally ornamental rather than practical wristwatches.

1835 — Gay Frères established: Geneva's Gay Frères began its long career as a specialist metal-chain and bracelet maker and later became one of the most influential suppliers to the Swiss watch industry.

1868 — Patek Philippe wristwatch: Patek Philippe produced a wristwatch for the Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, with lugs connecting the watch to its bracelet—an important step toward the modern wristwatch.

Late 19th / early 20th century — Leather becomes practical: Leather straps increasingly became a practical solution for securing wristwatches, particularly as wristwear expanded beyond jewellery.

1910s — Military adoption: The First World War accelerated the practical adoption of wristwatches, increasing demand for secure wrist-worn timepieces.

1920s — Modern bracelets emerge: Metal wristwatch bracelets began to become a major part of mainstream wristwatch design.

1930s — Bonklip: Gay Frères' adjustable Bonklip bracelets became associated with Rolex and represented an important development in flexible metal-bracelet construction.

1940s — Beads-of-rice: Gay Frères' beads-of-rice bracelets became an important mid-century design, particularly for dress watches and chronographs.

1947–1948 — Oyster bracelet: Rolex patented the riveted Oyster bracelet in 1947, with the design entering production in 1948 and becoming one of the defining forms of the modern sports-watch bracelet.

1950s — Curved end links: Bracelet construction evolved toward closer integration between bracelet and watch case, including curved end links designed to follow case contours.

1964 — James Bond and striped straps: Goldfinger helped make the striped military-style watch strap an enduring cultural image, although the strap shown was not technically a NATO strap.

1973 — NATO/G10 strap: The British Ministry of Defence introduced its military nylon watch strap specification. The original strap was Admiralty Grey, 20mm wide, with chrome-plated brass hardware.

1970s — Integrated bracelet era: Bracelets increasingly became integral to watch-case design, with specialist manufacturers such as Gay Frères producing influential integrated constructions.

Late 20th century — Rubber sports straps: Diving and professional sports watches increasingly adopted rubber and synthetic straps designed for water resistance and durability.

1998 — Gay Frères acquired: Rolex acquired Gay Frères, bringing the historically important bracelet manufacturer into its corporate structure.

21st century — Technical materials: Modern straps increasingly incorporate FKM rubber, advanced polymers, technical textiles, carbon composites, hybrid constructions and quick-release systems.

Today — The strap becomes personal: Interchangeable straps have become an important part of modern watch culture, allowing collectors and enthusiasts to change the character of a watch without changing its movement or case.
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